For a variety that can be powerfully aromatic and rich, we love the understated composure of this. Layered with ripe peach, apricot, crème brûlée and jasmine, this has supple, soft texture, fresh acidity and a long, savoury finish. It balances opulence with precision. Hand-harvested fruit from Hawkes Bay’s Ohiti Gravels was whole-bunch pressed directly to seasoned 500 litre French oak puncheons for wild fermentation, before spending 16 months on lees in neutral oak.

Alex and Hana Montaperto-Hendry of Saorsa produce tiny quantities of Rosé, Viognier, Syrah and Grenache from selected vineyards across Hawkes Bay. The wines are well defined stylistically, and offer a level of detail and complexity that surpass most in the region. The Syrah’s in particular are a standout for us.