It’s Organic Wine Week 2026. For us at By The Bottle, week in week out, we love getting behind our organic producers here in New Zealand. But what does it mean to be organic? And why do producers choose it?
At its simplest, organic farming means producing wine without synthetic (inorganic) compounds, mainly fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides. In conventional production, these compounds all serve a purpose in a vineyard, feeding vines, and reducing disease, pests and weeds. They are effective and efficient, especially at scale. So why would you forgo them?
It’s worth clearing up one common misconception: organic isn’t a style of wine. It doesn’t mean cloudy, funky or low-intervention. Organic certification is about how the grapes are grown in the vineyard; how the wine tastes and the style it takes is ultimately down to the decisions made in the winery.
We went straight to the horse's mouth for answers, and chatted with 4 kiwi producers across different regions who have all attained Biogro organic certification. They’re all accomplished, talented winemakers whose diverse range of styles would find happy wine drinkers, organic or not. So why go organic?
Neudorf - Nelson
Established by Tim and Rosie Finn in 1979 on Nelson’s Moutere clay soils, Neudorf have set the bar for wine excellence in this country. Most notably known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, their aromatic whites, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Albarino are equally outstanding. A family affair, the estate is now run by daughter Rosie, with winemaker Todd Stevens. Todd explains their shift to organics, that started in 2014 -
"Its largely philosophically driven… certainly nothing to do with dictating a wine style.
We felt that we could farm in a gentler way than was being done conventionally… focus on protecting the soil. After all, it will be here long after us.
By doing this, we feel the vine will produce, not necessarily better fruit, but a truer reflection of the site and climate. Combine this with old vines, some dry farming, and a lot of hard work, you get the most “authentic” expression.”
For a winery that has proven longevity over a couple of generations, it seems longevity is at the heart of it at Neudorf, with their sense of responsibility to look after their place. And in turn, make wines that are a truer expression of that place.
Deep Down - Marlborough
Clive Dougall and Peter Lorimer came together to form Deep Down in 2019, each with their own depth of experience in the wine industry. Organics was a must from the outset, working with certified growers like the Wrekin Vineyard, rather than owning their own vineyards. In 2019, Marlborough was a well and truly established sea of Sauvignon Blanc. Deep Down have cut through with their elegant, harmonious expressions of Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Clive explains why organics was so important from the start -
“Peter and I both fell in love with wines from the old world. Traditionally grown and made in harmony with nature - these mostly single vineyard, single varietal wines told stories of the season, history and of family. They were unique and couldn’t be reproduced anywhere else. That seemed special, and we wanted Deep Down to follow this path. We strive to make unique expressions of our terroir, and this is where organics becomes so important.
Organic vines generally grow less leaves and grapes per vine than chemically farmed vines. That’s because they aren’t getting pumped up with phosphates and nitrates to increase yields. Lower yields = more concentration and more connection to place. An organic vineyard makes the vines work for themselves, the lack of harmful chemicals allowing the fungi and bacteria to create symbiotic relationships with the vines. It’s a partnership that is alive and creates an extensive network, sharing minerals and nutrients, allowing the vines and the biosphere to flourish. No need for synthetic fertilisers here! If you can make true expressions, and better wine without chemical additions, why wouldn’t you?”
As at Neudorf, Clive and Peter see organics as a path to greater expression of place in their wines. Clive makes the point that yields are naturally lower, so as well as a philosophical decision, organic producers are making a commercial decision, seeking better quality over quantity. He also points out that healthier, stronger vines have a greater ability to manage diseases themselves without reliance on synthetic sprays.
O Naturel - Central Otago
Lucie and Brook Lawrence of O Naturel established their tiny 1.5 hectare vineyard on Burn Cottage Road in Lowburn, Central Otago in 2021. But their experience in the region goes back 20 years, previously running Aurum Estate where their organic journey began. They produce Sparkling, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of expressive purity and freshness. As well as classic styles, they playfully produce skin contact whites, chilled reds and Pet-Nat. From Lucie -
“We started farming organically 17 years ago, at a time when it was still very much outside the mainstream. Even then, it felt like the only way we wanted to farm. We believe a vineyard should be cared for. Wine starts in the vineyard, and I want the vines, the soil and the life around them to be healthy, vibrant and thriving.
Organic farming means paying attention, working with nature rather than constantly trying to control it, and thinking about the long-term health of the land. Seventeen years on, that belief hasn’t changed. If anything, seeing the vineyard through all those seasons has reinforced it. It’s more work, and it doesn’t always make things easier, but it feels like the right thing to do, for the land, for the vines, for our community and ultimately for the wines we make. I believe you can taste the difference when grapes are grown with care, and that’s what I want O Naturel wines to be about: honest wines that begin with healthy, living vineyards.”
As if winegrowing wasn’t challenging enough, Lucie highlights that forgoing synthetic products makes it even more laborious. On the flipside, it allows them to be in their vineyard more, observing and understanding in greater detail, inevitably leading to better wine. She also notes the more holistic benefits to not just the land and vines, but community too.
Halcyon Days - Hawke's Bay
Having worked in Europe and the UK, Amy and Olly Hopkinson-Styles moved back to Hawkes Bay to start their own label, with their first releases in 2019. As well as leasing their own vineyard (currently in BioGro conversion), they source organic fruit from the Osawa and Two Terraces vineyards. They’ve been a leading light in a new wave of smaller producers successfully challenging conventional wine styles, with their energetic, textural, lower alcohol wines produced from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese. Olly, a wine writer, doesn’t mince his words -
“Our reasoning for Organics is perhaps best approached in opposition to "conventional" viticulture, which generally uses synthetic products in the vineyard. I could be mean to synthetics by saying that using synthetic products on a living organism is a bit like privileging a relationship with an AI bot over that with a human being.
But in all honesty, it's probably more practical and more straightforward than even that. Synthetic products aren't great. As one tractor driver once put it, when he asked his employers if the cab on his tractor was insulated from the elements (and, by association, what he was being asked to spray on the vineyard): "I'd like to be able to have kids in the future".
I'll admit that's a polarising comment and it does no service to decent debate. But nor does trying to fudge over real issues and concerns with, say, the use of Roundup and associated chemicals. Just what are we putting on our food, on our grapes? Organics, at the very least, gives some peace of mind.
That doesn't mean Organics is the sainted answer to all our worries - it's not. There are real issues in that realm (not least copper use on vineyard land... a major concern). But at least it starts the ball rolling in what we would consider a more positive direction.”
Like Lucie, Olly raises community as a consideration - the health of those working and living among the vines. Glyphosate, the active ingredient in products like Roundup, is much more tightly restricted across many European countries because of health concerns. Importantly, Olly also mentions something that we consider all the time. Organics is not perfect but it's a great, quality focused start.
There’s a few things we hope we’ve drawn attention to here. Firstly, Olly’s final point, that organics is about moving in a positive direction, to look after our land and communities. Secondly, the drive to organics comes from producer’s own beliefs and desire to produce better wine for longer, not from attempts at green washing or a good marketing hook. It’s no coincidence we’ve seen the move to organics come from some of this country's best producers. Regardless of style, region or variety, whether they’re classic or unconventional, there’s an organic wine out there for every drinker. For us, that’s ultimately why organic matters: not because it guarantees a great bottle, but because it reflects an approach to farming, the land and the future of wine that we think is worth supporting.
