While it may not have the high profile of other French wine regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux, Languedoc in the south west of France is one of the country’s most dynamic. It’s here that we want to draw your attention to a very special producer, Domaine d’Aupilhac. But before we do that, a little more on Languedoc itself.

Stretching from Nimes, down across the south west coast of France, Languedoc is truly mediterranean. The hot summers, coastal breezes and water-retaining clay marl/limestone soils make for abundant viticultural territory. Along with Roussillon to the south, these two regions make up the largest grape growing area in France. The dry climate means disease pressure in the vineyard is low, and so organic winegrowing is practised across more vineyard area than anywhere else in France. 

Heat-loving grape varieties like Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault are predominant and red wine makes up 60% of production. Rosé from these varieties, and whites made from Roussanne, Rolle (Vermentino), Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Mauzac, Muscat, and Piquepoul make up the rest. Being a larger region there is, as you’d expect, big quantities of quite commercial wine made. But what we’ve seen in the last few decades is a renaissance in the region of serious small producers making detailed, distinctive wines.

With the varied microclimates, Languedoc provides a treasure trove of different styles for wine drinkers. Without the burden of a ‘distinguished’ reputation and the strict classifications of regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy, producers in the region tend to have a more soulful and individual approach to winegrowing. Domaine d’Aupilhac is the epitome of this. 

Domaine d’Aupilhac

Every now and then we taste through a set of wines from a producer, and immediately recognise that we’re trying something really special. This was the case for Domaine d’Aupilhac.

Three generations of Fadats have farmed in Aupilhac, set under the mountainous plateau of Larzac, 40 kilometres inland from the Mediterranean Sea. They sit across the Hérault River from two of Languedoc’s other outstanding domaines, Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères. 

In 1989 Sylvain Fadat established the estate, changing the family's course from being farmers to full time vigneron. As well as nurturing the original 13.5 hectare, south facing vineyard, Sylvain began establishing the 10 hectare Les Cocalieres vineyard in 1998. It’s set at higher altitude and on cooler, north facing slopes. Painstakingly the vineyard was planted by extracting the enormous rocks on the site. These two vineyards make up the domaine today, and are farmed biodynamically, with full organic and demeter certification. 

Set among the surrounding garrigue (the wild herbs, broom and shrubs typical of this part of France), these whites and reds show such a distinctive sense of place. They are intriguing, layered and complex.